If you do spread too much, you'll need to scrape it off. And right or wrong, this happened to me once, so I prepped it again with a pva solution then left to dry before continuing on the next day. Then continued laying the rest in a straight line as above. However, note I didn't go to the very end of the far left as I knew I needed to add trim behind it. It's not often when I hear about grout sealant. In fact, it's only ever been from a handful of my followers who do this for a living. The idea of sealing grout it to doubly make sure it's waterproof and prevent stains.

You can see above that I'm using a tile adhesive trowel. It should have teeth on it which looks quite notchy. Here, I'm starting where my centre line is, but making sure I only work with enough as I go. Mine probably had about 30 minutes working time before it set. However, when faced with planning this awkward section of trim, I was relieved that this was the perfect solution. It was imperative I worked out exactly where to cut my length down In fact, I wish I'd done this behind my hob two years ago. And instead of buying a grout impregnator, I found this free stone sealer sample from Eco Pro Tec perfect. Wet tile cutter like this with diamond blade if you need to cut L-shape tiles (or more than just one straight cut)I used to dread working with silicone sealant because if applied wrong, it looks very messy and awful. But now I get asked how do I get it so neat! Well, here's how! From doing tile research, I noticed some tile directly on to their worktop and others don't. I've done it both ways now. However, because I had a corner joint on my worktop that protrudes ever so slightly, I opted for spacers along the bottom. It can be scrubbed off, but it's very very tough. So here I used a plastic sheet with masking tape on a roll. Also, don't forget that stainless steel sinks still scratch.

However, no matter how perfect my mitre cut was, it wouldn't sit closed on its own. Now, maybe I have OCD, but I found last month's Bostik Fix & Flash resin glue perfect too. (This post honestly isn't sponsored in any way). I place a bit of masking tape or rag around my surface, but DON'T masking tape too close. This is solely to catch drips. Then I apply a bead of silicone, My best advice is try to be consistent - not too much, not too little. Now spray the silicone with watered down washing up liquid and smooth run along it with the corner of a credit card. I lined my first tile up with my centre pencil line, ensuring I left a slight gap for the spacer and pressed firmly on the wall. Then, after transferring your measurement to the tile, line the mark to the top of the tile cutter. And, starting from the bottom, gently push the handle down while moving forward to score the tile. And once you've got to the top, make sure the metal pressure piece is resting on the top edge of the tile. Then gently push down the handle until is cuts in half. Another tip is to mark with masking tape of which cut tile is which in case your cut was ever so slightly different. TILE AS USUALSo after marking a notch to cut around my upstand (far right), I poured water in the cutter and carefully cut. It's scary on the first go, but I fell in love almost immediately. Then tiled as usual. PREPPING FOR GROUTING

Also, AVOID scraping off with a filling knife or window scraper. Speaking from experience, it's far too easy to chip a tile, which you'll then need to replace. HOW DO I MIX GROUT?Firstly, always use tile spacers when tiling. They allow you to continue ensuring your tiling is level and even throughout. First, I measured the gap left under my window sill and deducted a 2mm tile spacer gap. *Note, I could curse whoever installed this window sill as really, it isn't deep enough to hide the edges. So, I do plan to build the sill up later with a deeper lip.