Looking at How much power does a hard drive use? we can see some hard drives use above 20W when spinning up which means even if we tried to boost the voltage of the max 15W 5V supply, it wouldn't be enough always. While that is old, looking at more modern hard drives say 6-14TB WD Red Plus 1.75A-1.85A maximum is still there. The fastest enclosure we've tested, the ZikeDrive uses an ASMedia ASM2464 controller to deliver USB 4 read speeds that are 20 percent faster than we've seen on the competition. Write speeds were less impressive, but still strong in most scenarios. However, the ZikeDrive doesn't make the best list yet, because it's part of an IndieGoGo campaign and not available for general sale. The AC1405 Screwless 3.5 inch SATA HDD Enclosure is the perfect solution for storing and sharing your favourite videos, pictures and files. Easily build-in your hard disk thanks to the screwless mounting design. The USB 3.2 Gen1 connection lets you enjoy a maximum data throughput up to 5Gbps. The Orico’s M2PV-C3’s design is less polarizing than that of the SSK SHE-C325, but it actually uses cheaper materials, as the top panel is ridged aluminum but the sides and bottom are ABS plastic.

Installing a 3.5 inch hard disk is very easy thanks to the screwless mounting design of the AC1405. Open the enclosure and connect the hard disk to the SATA connector and finally close the enclosure. The AC1405 is now ready to connect to your notebook or computer with the included USB cable. The enclosed power adapter provides the required power for your hard disk. Installing an SSD is pretty easy as you just need to unscrew the cover, attach the M.2 drive along with the optional cooling pad, screw in the mounting screw and reattach the cover. Unfortunately, both the cover and the mounting screw are 5-point star shaped screws, which are not very common. However, there’s a screwdriver in the box. How fast? Enclosures can only handle as much speed as their USB ports and the USB ports on your computer allow. Most 2.5-inch and 3.5-inch hard drive / SSD enclosures operate under standard 5 Gbps USB (USB 3 / 3.1 or 3.2 Gen 1). Most M.2 SSD enclosures operate at 10 Gbps (aka USB 3.1 or USB 3.2 Gen 2). I also have a couple Orico drives with fans, but those are just overkill and mostly for show. They do work, just big and require tools to swap drives. It is part of the USB specification that if a device attempts to draw too much power, it is simply disconnected from the target system - this is why, while your adapter itself shows up, you can't access the drive. There is no jumper setting to change, SATA drives don't have any.If you want an SSD enclosure with some RGB bling and a swanky sci-fi design, Asus’s ROG Strix Arion is for you. The M.2 NVMe enclosure has two RGB lights, an illuminated ROG logo on the top and a small plastic fin on the side. These show a pleasing pink and purplish light show which Asus markets as being part of its “Aura Sync” RGB ecosystem. However, there doesn’t seem to be any way to actually control the lights as the Asus Armoury Crate software we tested with did not recognize the drive. If we assume that the case for a 3.5" HDD must have room for 12 volts at 1 amp for the drive then that right there takes 12 watts. Then comes the 5 volt supply which might take 1/2 an amp, 2.5 watts. Then the interface board will need power. That's cutting it close even if the people engineering the case know that there will be 15 watts available.

To see how each SSD and hard drive enclosure performs, we installed an SSD, connected the enclosure to our testbed laptop (a ThinkPad X1 Carbon 10th Gen) and then ran a series of benchmark tests, using three different apps: PCMark 10’s Storage Benchmark, DiskBench and CrystalDiskMark 8. To maintain consistency, we used the same M.2 NVMe SSD, a Kingston Rage Fury PCIe 4.0 SSD (2TB), in all of our M.2 enclosures and the same 2.5-inch SATA SSD (a 1.9TB Toshiba model) in all of our 2.5-inch and 3.5-inch SATA enclosures.Which form factor? You have to get an SSD enclosure that matches the physical size of your drive. If you have a 2.5-inch hard drive or SSD, get a 2.5-inch SATA enclosure. For a 3.5-inch hard drive, you’ll need a 3.5-inch SATA enclosure. M.2 SSDs require M.2 enclosures, but be careful if your SSD is shorter than the standard 2280 (80mm size); most but not all enclosures have mounting screws for the shorter sizes. Also, if you plan to use an M.2 SATA SSD, as opposed to an NVMe one, make sure that the enclosure supports that standard instead (or in addition), because most M.2 enclosures are NVMe only. The Sabrent EC-USASP has an on / off switch, something you won’t find on most SSD enclosures but a nice convenience if you want to leave it plugged in but only power it on when you need it. Most 2.5-inch SATA enclosures have USB 3.0 micro B as their output port and come with USB Type-A to micro B cables. However, the EC-USASP has a USB 3 Type-A port (5 Gbps) and comes with a Type-A to Type-A cable. So, if you are planning to connect the enclosure to a laptop that has only Type-C ports, you can use a USB Type-A to Type-C cable (something many people have lying around the house) to do so. USB C PD 2.0 dropped mandatory 12V (and PD 1.0 is a paper only standard) and made that voltage optional. So our theoretical enclosure would only work with certain power supplies which is annoying and it's not possible for the end user to easily tell from the wattage alone. For eg. I have a non-spec compliant laptop which requires 12V 2.5A over USB C to charge and it's a major annoyance to figure out which 30W power banks can supply it. PD 3.0 introduced PPS which would be another source of 12V but again some chargers implement it and some don't. So you would have an enclosure which doesn't always work which would make customers unhappy, review scores low and support costs high. This is a no go.

The SHE-C325 isn’t the most attractive enclosure on the market, but it does use mostly aluminum casing (the left part near the USB port is plastic) and at 4.5 x 1.5 x 0.4 inches, it’s pretty portable. SSK’s enclosure also comes with a thermal pad to help send heat to the aluminum casing, but you’ll only want to use it if your SSD doesn’t have a built-in heat spreader. There’s also a small, built-in battery that provides 5-10 seconds (depending on which model you get) of service time in the event of a power failure. That brief window of time might be enough to allow the drive to finish writing some data and avoid corrupting your drive in the event of an ill-timed unplugging.To install our drive in this enclosure, we first had to remove the aluminum panel, which is attached with a tiny, 5-point star screw rather than a normal Philips head type. The enclosure comes with a small star-shaped screwdriver, but we lost it and had to go digging through our iFixit kit to find an appropriate head. How often will you open it? Most of the M.2 SSD enclosures we tested were made to be opened once, have a drive installed inside and then screwed closed for the long haul. While you can reopen all of them and change drives at any time, you should consider an enclosure with a tool-less design if you think you’ll be changing the drive frequently.